Having delved into Suvir Saran’s earlier book
Indian Home Cooking, I’ve been waiting
for months with giddy anticipation to get my
hands on his newest work, American
Masala – 125 New Classics from My
Home Kitchen (Clarkson Potter, $35).
Within a week, I have read it cover to cover,
senses awakening again as I gazed at each
gorgeous color photograph and checking off
seemingly every recipe to try sooner rather
than later. Mr. Saran writes with the same
passion and wit that he conveys in person,
whether it be teaching a class of eager
students or sharing a meal with friends and
family.
His stories of growing up in India in the
shadow (a.k.a. under-foot) of his family’s
cook, grandmother, and mother somehow
transcend his life and inspires others. He
shares his joy of learning from those he
loves and inspires us to teach those who
may be underfoot in our own kitchens.
Indian Home Cooking, I’ve been waiting
for months with giddy anticipation to get my
hands on his newest work, American
Masala – 125 New Classics from My
Home Kitchen (Clarkson Potter, $35).
Within a week, I have read it cover to cover,
senses awakening again as I gazed at each
gorgeous color photograph and checking off
seemingly every recipe to try sooner rather
than later. Mr. Saran writes with the same
passion and wit that he conveys in person,
whether it be teaching a class of eager
students or sharing a meal with friends and
family.
His stories of growing up in India in the
shadow (a.k.a. under-foot) of his family’s
cook, grandmother, and mother somehow
transcend his life and inspires others. He
shares his joy of learning from those he
loves and inspires us to teach those who
may be underfoot in our own kitchens.
| October 2007 |
| Recipes |
The Garam Masala that you made earlier now
delights the Indian-spiced Meatballs with
Tomato-Chile Sauce. With garlic and chilies at
the center, the spices of the Garam Masala –
including ground cloves and cayenne pepper
-- are the stars that twinkle with clarity and
delight in the meatballs. These delectable
gems is bathed in a tomato and red bell pepper
sauce, spiked with dried red chilies, fresh
rosemary and thyme.
Pistachio-and-Cardamom Pound Cake is an
absolutely delicious way to end a meal and can
be assembled and baked in no time. As with
any butter cake, make it a day ahead so the
delights the Indian-spiced Meatballs with
Tomato-Chile Sauce. With garlic and chilies at
the center, the spices of the Garam Masala –
including ground cloves and cayenne pepper
-- are the stars that twinkle with clarity and
delight in the meatballs. These delectable
gems is bathed in a tomato and red bell pepper
sauce, spiked with dried red chilies, fresh
rosemary and thyme.
Pistachio-and-Cardamom Pound Cake is an
absolutely delicious way to end a meal and can
be assembled and baked in no time. As with
any butter cake, make it a day ahead so the
In American Masala, he takes American standards and gives them an Indian twist. The book
begins with the foundation of Indian cuisine, chutneys, pickled vegetables, a raita, and spice
blends, especially the keystone: Garam Masala, but quickly moves to the American melting pot
with Spinach Lasagna with Roasted Eggplant Sauce and Veggie Enchiladas with Roasted Pepper
Sauce. The ease of his recipes and his encouragement throughout the book make it seem as
though anyone can welcome unexpected drop-in guests without panic. As he states, with just the
fewest of pantry staples like red onions, red bell peppers, potatoes, and jalapeños; a couple of
hearty snacks can be in front of your guests at a moment’s notice.
At last, Saran gives us his recipe for Manchurian Chicken. No longer is there the need to search
cyber space for this delectable dish nor fly to New York, to eat this flavorful creation again at his
soon to be re-opened restaurant, Devi. Now you can make it at home! With just a few simple
ingredients, the most exotic being garlic and ketchup, this dish is sure to please. Eggplant
Caponata traditionally includes tomatoes, olives and capers, but Saran’s Indian version includes
jalapeños, ground coriander, toasted cumin, and fresh cilantro.
There’s no trace of mayo in his cabbage slaw; instead you’ll find fresh ginger, chaat masala,
toasted cumin, cayenne pepper, and finely chopped jalapeño peppers. Every salad bar in America
seems to have some version of carrot salad, but for his, Saran sautés cumin seeds and ground
peppercorns, adds ground coriander, then stir fries grated carrots and green cabbage, adding a
few other ingredients at the end like cilantro and toasted cumin. As he states time and again, the
simplest ingredients become sublime with the layering and use of spices: whole, ground, toasted
dry, or sautéed in oil.
The Mushroom and Taleggio Turnovers are savory pillows of crimini, rosemary and red pepper
flakes with a splash of white wine all surrounded by flaky, buttery goodness. For a quick sauce
use the one from the Manchurian Chicken, adding a little water to thin and spoon over these puff
pastry delights.
begins with the foundation of Indian cuisine, chutneys, pickled vegetables, a raita, and spice
blends, especially the keystone: Garam Masala, but quickly moves to the American melting pot
with Spinach Lasagna with Roasted Eggplant Sauce and Veggie Enchiladas with Roasted Pepper
Sauce. The ease of his recipes and his encouragement throughout the book make it seem as
though anyone can welcome unexpected drop-in guests without panic. As he states, with just the
fewest of pantry staples like red onions, red bell peppers, potatoes, and jalapeños; a couple of
hearty snacks can be in front of your guests at a moment’s notice.
At last, Saran gives us his recipe for Manchurian Chicken. No longer is there the need to search
cyber space for this delectable dish nor fly to New York, to eat this flavorful creation again at his
soon to be re-opened restaurant, Devi. Now you can make it at home! With just a few simple
ingredients, the most exotic being garlic and ketchup, this dish is sure to please. Eggplant
Caponata traditionally includes tomatoes, olives and capers, but Saran’s Indian version includes
jalapeños, ground coriander, toasted cumin, and fresh cilantro.
There’s no trace of mayo in his cabbage slaw; instead you’ll find fresh ginger, chaat masala,
toasted cumin, cayenne pepper, and finely chopped jalapeño peppers. Every salad bar in America
seems to have some version of carrot salad, but for his, Saran sautés cumin seeds and ground
peppercorns, adds ground coriander, then stir fries grated carrots and green cabbage, adding a
few other ingredients at the end like cilantro and toasted cumin. As he states time and again, the
simplest ingredients become sublime with the layering and use of spices: whole, ground, toasted
dry, or sautéed in oil.
The Mushroom and Taleggio Turnovers are savory pillows of crimini, rosemary and red pepper
flakes with a splash of white wine all surrounded by flaky, buttery goodness. For a quick sauce
use the one from the Manchurian Chicken, adding a little water to thin and spoon over these puff
pastry delights.
flavors can meld. If your taste buds can't wait, bake it in the morning, drizzle the Lemon Icing
just prior to serving and watch your guests swoon over the flavors of cardamom and toasted
ground pistachios.
Whether impromptu friends arrive at your doorstep, you have all a day to prepare a feast, or need
inspiration to update your favorite recipe for macaroni and cheese, American Masala will
become a standard cookbook in your library. Saran’s chapter introductions as well as his
footnotes for every recipe can be read over and over to inspire and remember why cooking and
sharing good food is about comfort and adventure.
just prior to serving and watch your guests swoon over the flavors of cardamom and toasted
ground pistachios.
Whether impromptu friends arrive at your doorstep, you have all a day to prepare a feast, or need
inspiration to update your favorite recipe for macaroni and cheese, American Masala will
become a standard cookbook in your library. Saran’s chapter introductions as well as his
footnotes for every recipe can be read over and over to inspire and remember why cooking and
sharing good food is about comfort and adventure.
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