Brothy Poached Chicken with Mushrooms and Fresh Chile

My reading (0r lack thereof) of the numerous cooking magazines I get every month is backing up.  I could cancel every subscription and still have plenty to read for a good two years (don’t tell Cooks Illustrated, Saveur, Food & Wine, and Bon Appétit and those are just the major ones).  Therefore, one of my New Year’s resolutions (maybe the only one) is that every month I will cook a recipe from at least one of the magazines.

Ask anyone who knows me and they will tell you I have a tendency to improvise in the kitchen.  That’s what I’ve done here with Alison Roman’s recipe from the January 2015 issue of Bon Appétit.  I picked up the main ingredients at the grocer, but then looked in the pantry and freezer to see what I might add.  If I do say so myself, the results were delicious.

My version:
2 pounds bone-in, organic chicken breasts (about 2 large)
1 head garlic, halved crosswise
1 bay leaf (that’s all I had)
8 whole allspice
3 organic carrots, 1/4-inch, dice
1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more
2 teaspoons olive oil
1 medium red onion, cut in half and sliced from “pole to pole”
11 ounces maitake or shiitake mushrooms, sliced (my schrooms came in 5 oz containers, plus I had a few in the fridge)
1 fresh red chile (such as Fresno), thinly sliced
1 1″ piece ginger, peeled, finely chopped
1/2 cup frozen peas (from the freezer)
1/2 cup “sun-dried” tomatoes (from the freezer)
1 tablespoon Pedro Ximenez Vinegar (dry) (I didn’t have any white distilled)
1 tablespoon soy sauce
Freshly ground black pepper
Sliced scallions (for serving)

Why not purchase bone-in chicken breasts?  They are less expensive, take minimal effort to de-bone and said bones add an abundance of flavor to the broth.

Remove bones and tendon from chicken breasts.  Place bones, chicken, garlic, bay leaf, allspice, half the diced carrots, and 1 teaspoon salt in a medium pot.  Cover with 8 cups water (six cups didn’t seem like enough – see recipe below) and bring to a bare simmer over high heat.  Immediately reduce heat to medium-low and cook 8 minutes, skimming off any coagulated protein that forms on the surface (I’ve seen it referred to as scum, but that doesn’t sound very appetizing).  Remove chicken breasts fromthe liquid and let cool slightly.  Then, using two dinner forks shred into bite-size pieces.

While the chicken is cooling, continue simmering the broth for another 10 minutes.  Strain broth through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean bowl; reserving the garlic (which will need to be peeled) and discarding remaining solids.

Return the pan to medium fire and heat the olive oil (yes, the one from which you just poured the broth.  No, it doesn’t have to be washed, unless for some reason you burned something in it).

Sauté the onions for about 2 minutes.  Add mushrooms, chile, ginger, peas, remaining carrots, vinegar, and soy sauce to the broth.  Bring to a boil; reduce heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until broth tastes to your satisfaction, 8–10 minutes.  Add the soba noodles and cook according to the package directions (my said to cook 5 minutes).  Season with salt and pepper, then add shredded chicken and simmer just until meat is warmed through.

Divide soup among bowls and serve topped with scallions.


Original recipe:
1 1/2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken breasts (about 3 large)
1 head garlic, halved crosswise
2 bay leaves
4 whole allspice
1 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more
8 ounces maitake or shiitake mushrooms, torn into bite-size pieces
1 fresh red chile (such as Fresno), thinly sliced
1 1″ piece ginger, peeled, finely chopped
1 tablespoon distilled white vinegar
1 tablespoon soy sauce
Freshly ground black pepper
Sliced scallions and cilantro sprigs (for serving)

Place chicken, garlic, bay leaves, allspice, and 1 1/2 teaspoon salt in a medium pot. Cover with 6 cups water and bring to a bare simmer over high heat. Immediately reduce heat to medium-low, cover pot, and cook 8 minutes. Remove chicken from liquid and let cool slightly, then shred into bite-size pieces.

Strain stock through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean pot; discard solids. Add mushrooms, chile, ginger, vinegar, and soy sauce to stock. Bring to a boil; reduce heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until broth tastes rich and flavorful, 8–10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper, then add shredded chicken and simmer just until meat is warmed through.

Divide soup among bowls and serve topped with scallions and cilantro.

Do ahead: Chicken can be poached 2 days ahead. Let chicken and broth cool separately. Wrap up chicken and transfer broth to an airtight container; chill.

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Chocolate Shortbread Cookie

Chocoalate Shortbread Cookie

I tested this recipe first, using a food processor to mix the dough.  I found however, that it created too much air, allowing the cookies to puff up when cooked, but then deflate when cooled.  I guess the divot that was created could be filled with caramel sauce or ganache, which wouldn’t be a bad thing, and something to consider another time.  This time around I mixed all the ingredients by hand and if you have a kitchen scale, the entire recipe can be measured and mixed in one bowl.

As far as baking off the dough, it can be accomplished in a number of different ways.  The dough can be patted into a buttered 7 x 7-inch pan or a buttered 7-inch diameter cake ring.  Or, as I did in the recipe below, by forming the dough into a cylinder, cutting the dough into disks, and baking them off in individual 1 3/4-inch ring molds.  The dough can also be baked off without the rings; the cookie will just spread a bit.

Makes about 2 dozen depending on desired cookie size

1 cup plus 1 tablespoon (5 ounces) all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons (1 ounce) blue corn meal
5 tablespoons (2 ½ ounces) granulated sugar
1/3 cup (1 ounce) Dutch-processed cocoa powder
Pinch of kosher or sea salt
9 tablespoons (4 ½ ounces) unsalted butter, cut into at least 9 pieces

In a large bowl, using a wire whisk, mix together the flour, cornmeal, sugar, cocoa powder, and salt.  With your fingers, rub in butter until mixture comes together when squeezed with your hand.  Form into a cylinder of desired length and wrap tightly in parchment paper.  I formed mine into a cylinder that was 1 3/4-inches in diameter.  Refrigerate overnight.  The dough can also be frozen, but first wrap tightly in parchment paper and then in plastic wrap.

When ready to bake, set a rack on the bottom third of the oven and preheat to 325°F.  Line a sheet pan or two with parchment paper.

Unwrap the dough and using a sharp knife cut the cylinder into disks of desired thickness.   Set disks on parchment paper (about an inch apart, if not using rings) and bake right way so that the cookie dough sets before the butter melts.  Let cool completely then store in a container with a tight fitting lid.

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Marcona Almond Biscotti

BiscottiI like adding herbs to many different kinds of desserts.  Of course, it was only after I had made a batch of these biscotti, that I thought adding a few chopped sprigs would give them a delicious overtone with a hint of savoriness.  Next time, I might add about 1 1/2 teaspoons or so of chopped fresh rosemary or even oregano to the dough for a different twist.

Makes about 2 dozen

1 cup marcona almonds, toasted
1 3/4 cups (7 3/4 ounces) all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon double-acting baking powder
1/4 teaspoon kosher or fine sea salt
1 1/2 teaspoons fresh chopped rosemary
1 cup (7 ounces) granulated sugar
6 tablespoons (3 ounces) unsalted butter
2 large eggs
1/2 teaspoon almond extract

Preheat oven to 375°F or 350°F convection.  Line a baking pan with parchment paper; set aside. Place almonds in a food processor and using the metal “S” blade, pulse about 10 times or just until coarsely chopped.  Set aside.

In a medium bowl, combine flour, baking powder, and salt, stirring together with a whisk.  Set aside.

In the bowl of a stand mixer, using the paddle attachment, beat the butter and sugar on medium speed until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes.  Beat in the eggs one at a time so that each is incorporated into the butter/sugar mixture before adding the other egg.

Add the flour mixture to the butter mixture and beat on low speed until just combined; then stir in chopped almonds.

Divide the dough in half and roll into logs about 12-inches long; flatten slightly. Bake until firm and lightly browned about 30 to 35 minutes.  Let cool on a wire rack about 15 minutes.

Transfer each log to a cutting board. Using a serrated knife, cut log crosswise into 1/2-inch-thick slices. Return the slices to the baking pan.

Bake, rotating sheet halfway through, until slices are just turning brown around the edges, 15 to 18 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack to cool.


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Chocolate Gâteau


I often get “ribbed” when testing a new recipe as I can never leave it well alone and just follow the directions as written.  This time around, against my better judgement, I decided to follow it as presented.  It was a disaster.  I baked the cake for triple the suggested time and it was still a soupy mess.

The result from the second round of testing was at least edible, but I was still not happy with the results.  Therefore, it was back to the kitchen for additional researching and another round of baking.

For example, as part of my testing, I baked one gâteau with a parchment paper collar and another without one.  It is one more step, but the cake holds it shape much better using the collar while baking.

Also, since there are so few ingredients, my suggestion is to use the best ingredients available to you.    For instance, I used a Valrhona Manjari chocolate with its undertone of dark cherry.  I also used organic unsalted butter produced by Kalona SuperNatural.

1 pound (500 grams) 53 – 65 percent chocolate cut into small pieces
1/2 pound (250 grams) unsalted butter, cut into 16 pieces
1 tablespoon instant espresso coffee crystals dissolved in a scant ¼ cup hot water
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1/3 cup (65 grams) granulated sugar
8 large eggs (400 grams)
powdered sugar or cocoa powder for dusting

Set the rack to the lower third of the oven and preheat to 350°F  Dissolve the espresso powder in the water and add the vanilla extract.  Butter an 8 x 3-inch cake pan. Line bottom and sides with parchment paper, extending paper 2-inches above the pan to create a collar.  Set aside.

Place the chocolate pieces and butter in a large heatproof bowl and set over a pan of barely simmering water without allowing the bowl of chocolate to touch the water.  Stir occasionally until melted.  Stir in the espresso/vanilla mixture and set aside to cool.

While the chocolate is cooling, place the eggs into the bowl of a stand mixer and stir in the sugar.  Set the bowl in the same pan of simmering water and whisk until the eggs are warm to the touch and sugar has melted.

Remove the bowl from the water and set on the stand mixer.  Using the whisk attachment beat on medium high for 8 minutes.  The eggs will quadruple if not more in volume.

Bring the simmering water to a boil for use in the hot water bath, i.e. a bain marie (pronounced “bane mah-REE”).  This is a shallow oven-proof pan just large enough to hold to cake pan.   When ready to bake the gâteau, fill the pan half-full of boiling water.

In 3 separate but equal portions fold the egg mixture in to the chocolate mixture.  Pour the batter into the prepared cake pan and set in the bain marie.  Bake for about 40 minutes or until an instant read thermometer reads 140°F.  Remove the cake pan from the water bath and cool on a wire rack. When cool, refrigerate overnight.

Prior to serving heat the bottom of the cake pan over a low flame. Using an 8-inch cardboard round, place on top of the cake and flip out the cake from the pan.

Flip back over and set on a cake plate. Dust cake with confectioners’ sugar or cocoa powder and serve.   As an alternative, whip the cream and sweeten with confectioner’s sugar.


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Eggnog Crème Brûlée

Eggnog Creme Brulee

I used Kalona SuperNatural eggnog for this recipe.  It’s all organic with no stabilizers or preservatives.  And, above all it’s really good!

Of course any type of oven-proof ramekins can be used, but I enjoy the crunchy caramelized sugar to creamy custard ratio that is achieved when using a shallow vessel.

4 – four ounce servings

2 cups commercially prepared eggnog
5 large egg yolks, preferably organic
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1/3 cup mascarpone cheese, softened
¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon ground cloves
3 – 4 tablespoons granulated or turbinado sugar (for finishing)

Preheat the oven to 300°F.

Line a half-sheet pan with a towel and place 4 – four ounce ramekins on it.  Set aside.

Pour the eggnog into a pan over medium heat and cook, stirring occasionally until the mixture simmers, about 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, put the egg yolks and sugar into a mixing bowl and whisk together until light colored and frothy.  Stir the mascarpone into the yolk mixture until well blended and smooth.

Slowly whisk 1/4 cup of the heated eggnog mixture into the beaten yolks to temper them.  (This will prevent them from scrambling.)  Then, gradually whisk the remaining eggnog into the yolks.

Pour the eggnog mixture through a fine sieve to remove any egg strands.  Stir in the nutmeg, cinnamon and cloves.

Pour the mixture into the ramekins, dividing evenly.  Set pan in the oven.  Then fill the pan ½ full with boiling water.

Cook  for 40 – 50 minutes.  The centers should wiggle just slightly when shaken, but not be soupy.

Remove from water bath and cool for 30 minutes, then refrigerate for at least 3-4 hours or overnight before serving.  When ready to serve, sprinkle each serving with some of the granulated or turbinado sugar and caramelize with a kitchen torch or under a pre-heated broiler.

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Bourbon-Pecan Tart

Pecan Tart

One 10-inch Tart
12 – 16 servings

1 – tart dough*
3 large eggs, preferably organic and at room temperature
1/2 cup (packed) golden brown sugar
3/4 cup pure maple syrup
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
2 tablespoons Irish Whiskey or Bourbon
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 cups pecan halves or pieces

Pâte sucrée (Sweet Short Pastry Dough)*
2 cups (9 ounces) all-purpose flour
1/3 cup (2 1/2 ounces) granulated sugar
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon (1/4 ounce) salt
8 tablespoons (4 ounces) unsalted butter, cold, and cut into 10 pieces
2 large eggs, whisked together

For the dough, combine the dry ingredients in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade.  Pulse several times to mix.  Distribute the butter and pulse until it is coarsely chopped.   Add the eggs and pulse again until the dough just begins to come together.

Invert the dough to a floured work surface and carefully remove the blade.  Divide into about 7 or 8 portions. With heel of your hand, smear each portion once or twice in a forward motion to help distribute fat.  This is known in French as fraisage.   It is done to distribute the fat which promotes flakiness when it is baked.  After this step gather the dough up with a bench knife, form it into a disk and wrap in it plastic.  Chill the dough while preparing the filling.  You may prepare the dough up to 2 days before assembling and baking the tart.

When you are ready to bake the tart, set a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat to 350°F.

Remove the dough from the refrigerator and allow it to warm just until it is malleable and no longer hard.  Flour it and roll it to a 14-inch disk.  Roll the dough over the rolling pin and unroll it into a 10-inch removable bottom tart pan.  Press the dough into the bottom and sides of the pan, folding over the excess to make a decorative rim.  Using a fork, dock the bottom of the tart shell.  Keep any extra dough for patching potential cracks during baking.  Chill the dough while preparing the filling.

Tart Dough

Preheat oven to 375°F.  Set the prepared tart pan on a rimmed baking sheet and line tart dough with foil or parchment paper.  Fill with dried beans or pie weights.  Bake until tart dough is set and pale golden, about 30 minutes. Remove foil and weights.   Patch any cracks with extra dough and continue baking crust until golden brown, about 10 more minutes.

Meanwhile, using electric mixer, beat eggs and sugar in medium bowl. Beat in maple syrup.  Add butter, bourbon, vanilla, and salt; beat until blended. Stir in pecans, reserving enough to made a decorative pattern if desired.

Pour pecan filling into hot crust. Bake until center of filling is set, about 25 minutes.  Cool tart on rack 1 hour; remove pan sides.  Serve slightly warm or at room temperature. DO AHEAD: Can be made 8 hours ahead. Rewarm slightly before serving, if desired.

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Crème Fraîche Pumpkin Tart with Pecan-Ginger Shortbread Crust

Pumpkin Tart_v2

I must confess, I enjoy tarts better than pies as the ratio of crust to filling is more balanced.  And, since I can never leave well enough alone with any recipe, I switched up Mom’s pumpkin pie recipe by replacing the evaporated milk with home-made crème fraîche.

If you whip up the crème fraîche tomorrow, you will still have time to make this delicious tart by Thanksgiving.

1 can (15 ounces) pure pumpkin purée
3/4 cup (about 5.3 ounces) firmly packed light-brown sugar
8 ounces crème fraîche*, reserve the remaining to use as a topping or for another use.
3 large eggs
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
10-inch tart shell**

Preheat oven to 350°F.  In a medium bowl, whisk together pumpkin purée, brown sugar, crème fraîche, eggs, cinnamon, nutmeg, salt, and cloves until smooth.  Pour filling into prepared crust.

Bake until filling is set, about 40 – 50 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack, and let cool at least 30 minutes.  Refrigerate until well set, at least 1 hour and up to 1 day.

Crème Fraîche
1 pint heavy cream, pasteurized but not ultra-pasteurized
1 or 2 tablespoons buttermilk

Combine the cream and buttermilk in a saucepan and heat to no more than 85°F on an instant reading thermometer.  Pour into a clean glass or non-reactive bowl.  Partially cover with a clean dishtowel and let stand at room temperature (between 65 and 75 degrees) for 8 to 24 hours, or until thickened.

Ginger-Pecan Shortbread Crust**
1/2 cup (2 ounces) pecans
1/4 cup (1 3/4 ounces) granulated sugar
1 1/2 cups (6 3/4 ounces) all-purpose flour
¼ cup (3/4 ounces) powdered sugar
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1/2 cup (4 ounces) chilled unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes, plus more for buttering pan
1 large egg, beaten

Preheat oven to 350°F.  Place pecans in an ovenproof pan and cook for about 15 minutes or until toasted and fragrant.  Remove from oven and transfer to a shallow bowl or plate to cool.

While the pecans are toasting, butter a 10-inch-diameter tart pan with removable bottom.  Line bottom with a round of parchment paper.

Combine cooled pecans and granulated sugar in food processor; using the metal “S” blade finely grind nuts.  Add flour, powdered sugar, and salt and blend for an additional 5 seconds or so.  Add butter and pulse using on/off turns, until coarse meal forms.  Add beaten egg and blend until moist clumps form, about 30 seconds.

Press dough evenly onto bottom and up sides of prepared pan. Pierce bottom all over with fork. Freeze crust at least 1 hour, if wanting to freeze for more than an hour, removed from freezer and wrap tightly with aluminum foil.  Return to freezer for up to 1 day.

Preheat oven to 375°F. Bake crust uncovered until deep golden brown, checking often and pressing sides and bottom with back of fork during first 15 minutes when crust puffs or bubbles, about 20 minutes total. Cool completely.

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Chocolate Pots de Crème

pot de creme v1

Making pot de crème is surprisingly easy and when the best ingredients are used, it never fails to be delicious.  Also, if kept wrapped and refrigerated, it can be made up to 3 days in advance, thus making it the perfect end to a dinner party.

The finished dessert can be served in a variety of containers, but beware, it is very rich.  Therefore, a relatively small container would be my preference.   The recipe makes about 30 fluid ounces  Pour water into the container of your choice and measure the amount of ounces.  Divide that amount by 30 to get the number of vessels that will be needed.  I used 2-ounce containers and made 15 servings.

Also, instead of spending time finely chopping chocolate with a chef’s knife, I put the larger pieces in a food processor.  Using the metal “S” blade, give it a few pulses and it makes short work to render it all finely chopped.

Makes about 30 fluid ounces

9 ounces bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped (I used Valrhona 65%)
5 large egg yolks, organic if possible
5 tablespoons granulated sugar
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1 1/2 cups heavy cream
3/4 cup half-and-half
½ vanilla bean, split
1/2 teaspoon instant espresso powder mixed with 1 tablespoon water

Garnishes (optional)
Whipped cream
A dusting of cocoa powder
Sprinkle on a few chocolate shavings

After the chocolate is finely chopped, place it in medium heatproof bowl.  Set a fine-mesh strainer over bowl and set them aside.  In another medium bowl, whisk together yolks, sugar, and salt until combined; whisk in heavy cream and half-and-half.

Transfer mixture, along with the vanilla bean to a medium saucepan.  Cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly and scraping the bottom of pot with a wooden spoon or heat-proof spatula until thickened.

The custard should register between 175° to 180° F on an instant-read thermometer and should take about 8 to 12 minutes.  Do not let the custard simmer or it will become grainy due to the egg yolks curdling.

Immediately pour the hot custard through the strainer and over the chocolate.  Let the mixture stand to melt the chocolate, about 5 minutes. Whisk gently until smooth, then stir in the espresso.  Divide mixture evenly among individual ramekins/vessels. Gently tap each one to remove air bubbles.

Cool pots de crème to room temperature, then cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until chilled, at least 4 hours or up to 3 days.  Before serving, let pots de crème stand at room temperature 20 to 30 minutes.

Serve with your favorite garnish.

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