Memory fails me on how we ended up at Solo-Vino one particular evening about four years ago. Was it happenstance or an email blast that brought us to a tasting of wines from Domaine Rouge-Bleu and to meet the wine maker M. Jean-Marc Espinasse? Regardless, of how we ended up there, we have been blessed knowing Jean-Marc and enjoying the wines that his family produces about 25 minutes north of Avignon.
Every March Jean-Marc returns to Minnesota to introduce us to his new vintages and for the third year 128 Café has hosted a Wine Maker’s Dinner featuring the wines of Rouge-Bleu. The moment the email came from Jean-Marc announcing his arrival and another dinner, I was on the phone to the 128 to make reservations. The evening did not disappoint.
We arrived at our table to find a platter of the Cafe’s famous apple chutney, goat cheese croquettes and grilled crostini. Glasses of Dentelle Rosé 2011 were set before each of us to enjoy with our amuse bouche. This rosé is smooth and light being pressed from the grapes of Grenache and Carignan. The name in English means lace, which is a perfect name for this beautiful wine. The same wine remained flowing as we enjoyed our next course which was a lemon-caper risotto with spicy grilled calamari, basil oil and pickled carrot. As they say, what grows together goes together and this pairing could not have been more perfect with citrus, capers and the fruits of the sea.
A panzanella salad with spinach, arugula, radish, fennel, cucumber and white beans was enjoyed for Act 3 along with a cream of artichoke and asparagus soup. Thank goodness the chef did not add tomatoes which are traditional for such a salad. We’ll wait until summer for that addition. What we did enjoy were some of the abundance that is now in season both in the salad and soup. A Chateau de l’Aiguillette Muscadet 2011 was poured and enjoyed.
Our plat choices were either an artichoke and spinach stuffed chicken breast with polenta and vegetable salicon; a beef tenderloin stroganoff with crimini mushrooms, fresh herbs, spaetzle and grilled asparagus or a mahi mahi on saffron-caper basmati rice with grilled zucchini and a tomato-leek purée. The majority of the table went with the stroganoff, which seemed perfect on a chilly (okay cold) early spring evening.
I guess Jean-Marc couldn’t decide as both his Dentelle Rouge 2010 and his Mistral Rouge 2010 (a blend of grenache, syrah, mourvedre, and rousssan) were poured. On the nose the Dentelle Rouge was full of red fruits like currants with a hint of smokiness. The Mistral, named after the strong winds that blow through the Rhone valley, had the intensity of dark red fruit with spice. The intensity however was not heavy and it had an enjoyable long finish.
Brock and Natalie Obee would be proud that the Café continues to thrive in the basement of an apartment complex across from the campus of the University of Saint Thomas. We took a peek at their regular menu and the famous 128 Café ribs are still on the menu. They are the best! Luckily, the Obee’s shared the recipe once at a cooking class and I was fortunate to be in attendance. They are magic on your tongue. 128 Café, Cleveland Avenue North, Saint Paul MN. 651.645.4128. For more information on the wines that Jean-Marc produces and where they can be purchased, check out his check out his website at Domaine Rouge Bleu.








Grape and Cucumber Raita
Photograph by Steve Young-Burns
Having cooked alongside my friends from India including Raghaven Iyer, Suvir Saran and Suneeta Vaswani, I am inspired daily by what each has taught me about the foods of their homeland.
They are masters at combining spices, now so readily available, in unique and flavorful ways. Is this recipe exactly traditional? That I’m not sure, but I’m guessing that it is not as I have not been able to find a recipe that combines both grapes and cucumbers. That’s the beauty though of cooking, you get to adapt and change to suit your own tastes.
Indian cuisine oftentimes has a kick of heat, but enjoying it with this raita, cools the palate, for the enjoyment your next bite. You can always kick up the heat of the raita too by adding more chilies and/or cayenne pepper to you liking.
About 8 – 1/3 cup servings (2 points)
1 teaspoon whole cumin seeds
1/2 teaspoon whole coriander seeds
1/2 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
1 – 2 dried hot chilies (depending on amount of heat desired)
2 1/2 cups plain 5% yogurt, such as Kalona SuperNatural
1 cup red or green seedless grapes, cut in half
3/4 cup peeled, seeded and diced English cucumber
2 scallions, diced (white and tender green leaves)
1 teaspoon chopped fresh mint
1/8 – 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt, or to taste
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro (optional)
Combine the cumin, coriander, peppercorns and dried chilies in a small frying pan and toast over medium heat until the seeds begin to brown and become fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Grind to a powder in a spice grinder or mortar and pestle and set aside.
Whisk the yogurt in a bowl until smooth and lightened. Add the grapes, cucumber, onion, and mint and stir to mix well. Stir in the ground spices and cayenne. Chill well. Stir in the salt just before serving and sprinkle with the chopped cilantro if desired.