Baking with Zoë

Why is it that I’m always intrigued by the most complicated recipes when perusing the cooking magazines that land in my mailbox? This time it was a classic Sicilian Cassata or Ricotta Cake in the April 2011 issue of Saveur magazine that caught my whimsy. I thought that if it was a success, I’d make it again for Easter Dinner.  But why tackle this recipe test alone when your friend is Zoë François of Baking with Zoë and she has invited you to spend the day baking whatever you want in her beautiful kitchen?

On a recent Monday morning I arrived with ingredients in hand, except of course the ricotta that was still sitting in my fridge. After a quick trip to the co-op, we got down to the opportunity at hand. Zoë hung the sheer curtains around her sunny breakfast room to defuse the copious amounts of sunlight streaming in the windows. (Of course, I’m still using blue painters tape to hang mine when I set up my “studio” for blog photos.)

After reading the recipe through several times, we divided it up so that our limited time would have the greatest success. We had barely started when we stopped to admire the farm fresh eggs that my friends, Curt and Paul, had brought from their farm, The Gentleman Farmers, Inc. in Richmond, Minnesota.  They provide Bret’s Table with dozens of these gorgeous and delicious organic, free-range eggs on a regular basis. With eggs admired, we forged ahead only to halt moments later to pay equal homage to the wonderful citrus whose rinds we were about to candy for the decoration on the finished cake.

The Cake:
With the photographs of the eggs and citrus taken, we got down to the business of baking. The cake batter came together quite easily, but the 9-inch cake pan was definitely too small. As it baked, it rose a good 1/2-inch above the rim, only to fall from its own weight as it cooled. Note to self—using a 10-inch cake pan would have worked much better. Zoë’s idea, though, of baking it in a half-sheet pan was brilliant, and the amount of batter called for in the recipe was perfect.

The Marzipan:
We tackled the marzipan, learning from the experience of making it twice. When the recipe calls for using “only enough egg white to form a smooth dough,” don’t let that last bit of egg white dribble into the food processor, as it will become too wet. How does one remedy this mishap? Remove the dough from the processor, process another ½ cup of pistachios and add the “wet” dough in pieces back into the processor, buzzing the whole mixture again. Also there is no need to roll the dough much wider than the rim of the pie pan (or in the case of Zoë’s recipe, a bread pan).

The Candied Fruit and Simple Syrup:
Instead of using the simple syrup called for in the recipe, we used the syrup from the candied kumquats.  Here’s a link to Zoë’s blog to make your own candied fruit.

The Ricotta Filling:
Finding a one-pound container of whole milk ricotta was impossible, and I didn’t find it prudent to purchase a second container for one ounce. Therefore I made an executive decision and decided on fifteen ounces per recipe. After squeezing out as much whey from the ricotta as was humanly possible, we opted for mixing the filling in the food processor, again following the pictures instead of the recipe. The results were very soupy and it was doubtful that it would ever set. Luckily, Zoë had about four pounds of full-fat cream cheese in her fridge. We measured off ½ pound for each recipe, whipped it in the stand mixer and then incorporated it into the filling. At that point it was a perfect consistency.

The Assembly:
I lined a 10-inch pie plate with plastic wrap as I couldn’t find a 12-inch plate called for in the recipe.  Based upon the pictures included with the recipe, we determined that we needed to line the rims of our respective pans with the marzipan before adding the cake strips (again you’ll see when Zoë’s posts her recipe, she’s using  a bread loaf pan). This step was not noted in the recipe itself. We added the first layer of cake slices to the bottom of the pan and brushed them with the simple syrup. We then poured the “altered” filling into the mold and topped it with the second layer of cake slices, brushing them with more simple syrup. Finally we covered it with the overhanging plastic wrap and laid it to rest in the fridge overnight.

Finishing the cake:
The next day we unmolded our respective cakes and poured the glaze (the one component we didn’t change) over the top of the cake. Back in the fridge it went to allow the glaze to set before it was decorated with the candied fruit, sliced and enjoyed.

In the end the cake was as delicious as it was beautiful decorated with the jewels of candied fruit. Since I have enough leftover ingredients, I’ll be making it again for our Easter dinner. If I do say so myself, it will be the centerpiece of the buffet table! And, not to worry blog fans Zoë will be posting her rendition of the cake as well in time for Easter.

Recipe as published in Saveur:

Butter, for greasing pan
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour, sifted, plus more for dusting pan
2/3 cup plus 3/4 cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon orange zest (organic if possible)
6 large eggs
1 cup shelled pistachios
3 cups confectioners’ sugar
White of 1 large egg, lightly beaten
2 tablespoons Grand Marnier liqueur
1 pound whole-milk ricotta, drained overnight in a cheesecloth-lined strainer, or ricotta impastata
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
Whole candied fruits, such as oranges, apricots, and cherries, halved

Candied citron, cut in strips

Heat oven to 350°
Grease and flour a 9-inch cake pan; set aside. Combine 2/3 cup granulated sugar, zest, and eggs in a large bowl and beat on high speed of a stand mixer until pale and light, about 5 minutes. Add flour and fold to combine. Pour into cake pan and smooth top. Bake until a toothpick inserted in center of cake comes out clean, about 30 minutes. Transfer pan to a wire rack, let cake cool completely, and remove cake from pan.

Using a serrated knife, cut cake crosswise into 1/2″-thick strips; set aside. Line bottom and sides of a 12″ metal pie plate with plastic wrap; set aside.

Process the pistachios in a food processor until finely chopped. Add 1 cup confectioners’ sugar and process until finely ground. With processor running, slowly add enough egg white to form smooth dough.

Transfer dough to a work surface dusted with confectioners’ sugar and knead until smooth. Using a rolling pin, roll marzipan until 1/4″ thick. Cut into 2″-wide strips and line side of pie plate with strips, flattening where they overlap to form one continuous ring; set aside.

Heat 1/4 cup sugar and 1/4 cup water in a saucepan over medium-high heat. Cook until sugar dissolves, then stir in Grand Marnier; set aside.

In a large bowl, whisk together remaining sugar, ricotta, vanilla, and cinnamon until smooth, 2–3 minutes; set aside.

To assemble, line bottom of prepared pie plate with cake strips, cutting to fit, and then sprinkle with 5 tablespoons Grand Marnier syrup; place ricotta mixture on top of cake and spread evenly to fill pie plate, smoothing top. Cover top of ricotta mixture with remaining cake slices, cutting to fit evenly, and drizzle with remaining syrup; trim excess pistachio marzipan and then wrap pie plate in plastic wrap and refrigerate until chilled, 2 hours.

Meanwhile, combine remaining confectioners’ sugar and lemon juice in a medium bowl to make a thick glaze. Invert pie plate onto a serving dish and peel off plastic wrap. Pour glaze over cake to cover evenly. Decorate with candied fruits. Refrigerate cake until set, 2 hours or overnight.

Posted in Desserts, General Blog, Ingredients | 2 Comments

Raw Milk Cheddar and Pecan Muffins with Maple Butter

Pecan Corn Muffins

This recipe was originally published for PastureLand Co-op

2/3 cup (2 ounces) pecans
1 1/2 cups (about 6 ounces) grated PastureLand Raw Milk Organic medium or sharp Cheddar, divided
1 cup (4 1/2 ounces) all-purpose flour
1 cup (5 3/4 ounces) yellow cornmeal
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1 tablespoon double acting baking powder
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
5 tablespoons (2.5 ounces) PastureLand unsalted butter, melted and cooled, plus more for brushing muffin tins if going that route
3/4 cup whole milk
1/4 cup whole milk sour cream
1 large eggPreheat oven to 400°F.  Using non-stick food spray, lightly spray twelve 1/3-cup muffin cups or 24 mini muffin tins or brush with softened butter or use paper muffin cups.

While oven is pre-heating, place pecans on a small sheet pan and toast for about 5 minutes or until just fragrant.  Remove to another pan to cool and then chop into about 1/8-inch pieces.

Reserve 1/8 cup cheese.  In a bowl using a whisk, stir together flour, cornmeal, sugar, baking powder, and salt.  Stir in remaining cup cheddar and chopped pecans.  In a small bowl whisk together the melted butter, milk, sour cream and egg.

Stir butter mixture into flour mixture until just combined.  Divide batter among muffin tins and sprinkle with reserved Cheddar.

Bake muffins in middle of oven until golden and a tester comes out clean, about 15 – 18 minutes.  If not using paper muffin cups, allow to cool slightly then run a knife around the parameter  of each to loosen before removing from tins.  Serve with maple butter.

Maple Butter

6 1/2 ounces PastureLand Butter, room temperature
3 tablespoons pure maple syrup, room temperature

In a bowl of a stand mixer, using the paddle attachment, beat the butter with the syrup until light and fluffy.  Place in a small bowl.  Serve with the muffins.

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Almond-Rosemary Cornmeal Cake

This recipe first appeared on the PastureLand website.
Makes one 9-inch cake

Rosemary was a symbol of love in the middle ages.  It’s also a classic pairing with almonds. Why not combine these two ingredients to make one delicious cake.  It can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 4 days, or refrigerated for up to 1 week.

½ cup (3 ounces) fine yellow cornmeal
½ cup (2 ounces) cake flour, not self-rising
1 teaspoon baking powder
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon fresh minced rosemary
1 stick (4 ounces) unsalted butter, softened, plus more for buttering the cake pan
¾ cup (7 ounces) almond paste, softened
1 ¾ cups (7 ½ ounces) confectioners’ sugar, plus more for dusting
½ teaspoon pure vanilla extract
4 large egg yolks
2 large eggs
¾ cup sour cream

Preheat the oven to 350°F.  Butter sides and bottom of a 9-inch round cake pan. Line bottom of pan with a piece of buttered parchment paper.

In a medium bowl, whisk the cornmeal with the cake flour, baking powder, salt and rosemary and set aside.

In the bowl of a stand mixer, using the paddle attachment, combine the softened butter and almond paste, mixing on medium speed until very smooth.  Add the confectioners’ sugar and the vanilla extract, and beat until light and fluffy.

Reduce the mixer speed to low and add the egg yolks and whole eggs, 1 at a time, fully incorporating in between additions, until smooth.

Add the sour cream and beat until fully blended then add the flour, cornmeal mixture.  Mix until just incorporated.

Scrape the batter into the prepared cake pan and smooth the surface. Bake in the lower third of the oven for about 30 minutes, or until the cake is golden, puffy and just pulls away from the side of the pan.

Transfer the cake to a wire rack and let it cool in the pan for about 10 minutes. Invert the cake, from the pan onto the rack and let it cool completely. Turn the cake right-side up.  Just before serving,  sift the top with confectioners’ sugar.

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Château Lamothe de Haux

I had a can of escargot in the refrigerator that had been sitting there for at least six months.  Looking at the expiration date, I still had a good year before they would “expire” but I was tired of moving the can around from shelf to shelf. Not being able to find anymore, they became an accompaniment to a garlic flan with a parsley-cream sauce that I served  at a recent French class.  The dish paired beautifully with this Bordeaux.

The wine was bottled on the estate of Château Lamothe with the estate having been family owned since 1956. They began with 6 hectares in 1972 and now their three estates total 85 hectares.

The vineyards consist of 59 ha of red wine varieties consisting of Merlot (60%), Cabernet Sauvignon  (30%) and Cabernet Franc (10%).  The remaining 26 ha are planted with the Bordeaux varieties of Sauvignon Blanc (40%), Sémillon (40%), and Muscadelle (20%).

The particular bottle that we enjoyed is the traditional blend composed of 40% Sauvignon Blanc, 40% Semillon, and 20% Muscadelle. It is based on the ancient tradition, rare in Bordeaux these days, of traditional wine-making with skin contact (50%), cool fermentation in the vat, and barrel-aging on the lees for about 3 weeks.

It was refreshingly acidic, round, and pleasantly fruit-forward, pairing perfectly with the creaminess of the flan and sweet escargot.  It would also make an excellent aperitif or a lovely accompaniment to fish or oysters on the patio come summer.

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Preserved Lemons, Now’s the Time!

At least here in the Midwest, tis the season for Meyer Lemons.  Now is the time to preserve this delightful fruit as they won’t be around for long.

This recipe is from Paula Wolfert’s book, Couscous and Other Good Food from Morocco.  The important thing in preserving lemons is to be certain they are completely covered with salted lemon juice. With Wolfert’s recipe you can use the lemon juice over and over again.  She actually keeps a jar of used pickling juice in the kitchen, and when she make Bloody Marys or salad dressings and has half a lemon left over, she’ll toss it into the jar and let it marinate with the rest.  Use wooden utensils to remove the lemons as needed to keep the others pristine.

Sometimes one will see a sort of lacy, white substance clinging to preserved lemons in their jar; it is perfectly harmless, but should be rinsed off for aesthetic reasons just before the lemons are used. Preserved lemons are rinsed, in any case, to rid them of their salty taste. Cook with both pulps and rinds, if desired.

5 lemons
1/4 cup salt, more if desired

Optional ingredients that may be added:
1 cinnamon stick
3 cloves
5 to 6 coriander seeds
3 to 4 black peppercorns
1 bay leaf
Freshly squeezed lemon juice, if necessary

Equipment:
Shallow bowl
Sterile 1-pint mason jar
Sharp knife

If you wish to soften the peel, soak the lemons in lukewarm water for 3 days, changing the water daily.

Quarter the lemons from the top to within 1/2 inch of the bottom, sprinkle salt on the exposed flesh, then reshape the fruit.

Place 1 tablespoon salt on the bottom of the mason jar. Pack in the lemons and push them down, adding more salt, and the optional spices between layers. Press the lemons down to release their juices and to make room for the remaining lemons. (If the juice released from the squashed fruit does not cover them, add freshly squeezed lemon juice — not chemically produced lemon juice and not water.*) Leave some air space before sealing the jar.

Let the lemons ripen in a warm place, shaking the jar each day to distribute the salt and juice. Let ripen for 30 days. To use, rinse the lemons, as needed, under running water, removing and discarding the pulp, if desired — and there is no need to refrigerate after opening. Preserved lemons will keep up to a year, and the pickling juice can be used two or three times over the course of a year.

According to the late Michael Field, the best way to extract the maximum amount of juice from a lemon is to boil it in water for 2 or 3 minutes and allow it to cool before squeezing.

Tips from Paula Wolfert

To sterilize a mason jar for the lemons, place it upside down in a steamer and steam for 10 minutes. Using tongs (wrap the ends in rubber bands for a better grip), remove the hot jar and dry it upside down on a paper towel-lined baking sheet in a warm oven. To sterilize the jar’s top, boil it in water for 5 minutes, then remove with tongs.

When you’re ready to use a lemon, remove it with clean utensils to avoid contaminating the inside of the jar with bacteria. This way, the remaining contents of the jar will not need to be refrigerated.

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Cheese Croquettes

If you are looking for something beyond (or maybe in addition to) your favorite chips and dip for your Super Bowl party, here’s a great make ahead appetizer.  Steve from PastureLand Co-op suggests a chilled Wisconsin lager as a natural accompaniment with these tasty snacks – unless of course you’re a Steelers fan!

Makes about 16 Croquettes

6 tablespoons PastureLand Summer Gold unsalted butter, at room temperature and cut into small pieces
1 ½ cups (6 ¾ ounces) unbleached all-purpose flour, sifted
1 scallion very finely chopped, optional
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
¼ teaspoon kosher Salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
1 cup (3 ounces) organic PastureLand raw milk cheddar cheese
1 large egg, separated
3 tablespoons Cedar Summit Farm heavy cream
½ – 1 cup fine dry bread crumbs

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line cookie sheet with parchment paper or Silpat.

In the bowl of an stand mixer, using the paddle attachment, mix together butter, flour, cayenne pepper, salt, and pepper. Mix in optional scallion and then add cheese, egg yolk and heavy cream, mixing at low speed just until combined. Do not over mix.

With your hands, form the mixture into balls slightly smaller than a walnut. In a medium bowl, whisk the egg white until frothy.   Dip each cheese ball in the egg white and roll lightly in the breadcrumbs shaking off any excess.

Place on the prepared cookie sheet and bake for 25 minutes, or until golden brown. Serve hot with your favorite dipping sauce or the one below.

Croquettes can be made and bake off ahead of time.  Cool then freeze on the cookie sheet.  After they are frozen, seal them in a zip-loc bag.  Reheat in a 350°F oven for about 10 minutes or until hot.

Zippy Dipping Sauce

1/3 cup whole milk sour cream
1/3 cup plan Greek yogurt
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper, or more or less to taste
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon heavy cream
Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste

Whisk ingredients together in a bowl and serve with croquettes.

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California Food, French Accent

 

Ellelle specializes in artisanal foods hand-crafted in Pasadena, California.  Lennie LaGuire (the “L.L.” behind Ellelle) is a journalist-turned-chef who trained at Le Cordon Bleu in Paris.  She created her company to showcase local, organically grown fruit.  Her jams feature sparkling flavor combinations and are cooked in hammered copper French preserving pans with no commercial pectin.

I made biscuits the morning to taste the Grapefruit Campari Jam that my friend Kevin gifted me.  There was just the right amount of tartness from the grapefruit with a subtle taste of Campari.  It was however, more like a marmalade rather than a jam, as there were lovely pieces of grapefruit rind in it as well.  And of course, I had to uncork my bottle of Campari just to confirm its taste again.  It paired perfectly with the grapefruit.

Her products were a finalist in the Best of LA 2010 Good Food awards.  Check out her website if you get a chance.

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L’Etoile Restaurant, a Star indeed!

I became familiar with E’toile Restaurant in Madison, Wisconsin, many years ago.  At that time, chef/owner Odessa Piper taught cooking classes at Cooks of Crocus Hill.  Her passion for seeking out local ingredients was unbridled.  As the cooking school coordinator at the time, she’d have me foraging all over town (virtually, mind you until I found it) for a particular ingredient.  I came to appreciate her passion for seeking out what was local, sustainable, and when possible organic.

When a recent trip to Madison was confirmed, my first call was to E’toile for reservations.  This was based on the reputation of Chef Piper, though I knew she had retired several years ago.  Her chef de cuisine, Tory Miller, has now taken over the helm as both chef and co-owner of the restaurant.

We arrived on a crisp Friday evening, by walking a block from our hotel.  Having never been to the original E’toile, I have nothing to compare the new location to the former, but I must say that the current setting is lovely with its modern, yet comfortable setting.  Regardless of where you might sit, a view of the Wisconsin capitol, it’s beautiful architecture, and the square on which it sits is set before you.  For some reason I was intrigued by the gorgeous gray carpeting, embossed with what I imagined to be tree trunks and branches.  The tables, covered in white linen, were set comfortably close.  And, the balcony in the back allowed a view through the floor to ceiling windows at the front.

While we pursued the menu, I enjoyed an E’toile Kir made with their very own house-made currant syrup.  Jon savored “The Mitchell Report”, an aperitif of Pierre Ferrand Ambre Cognac, house-made pear reduction and muddled sage.  Throwing caution to the wind, I decided on the five-course tasting menu with wine pairings, while Jon decided on three-courses from the menu.

On this particular night, the Amuse Bouche was a West Star Farm Salsify chowder, shiitake mushroom duxelle, with an Old Bay-seasoned oyster cracker. It was paired with a Marc Hebrart, Mareuil-sur-Ay Champagne.  My only complaint was that I could not have two servings.  Jon wouldn’t share!

I make a lot of crazy things at home, but it is very unlikely that I would ever make pork head cheese.  Since it was an option, I went for it and enjoyed immensely the Mangalitsa pork head cheese, with a sauce gribiche, mâche salad, and gaufrettes while sipping a 2009  Sinnean Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough New Zealand.  My fork did wander over to Jon’s plate and his Shooting Star Farm French breakfast and beauty heart radish salad, with parsley leaves, and red onion, tossed in a lemon vinaigrette and served with a Capri Farm Five-Points Reserve Cheese.

Mid-course was upon us and to the delight of my my senses, I relished the Cocco bucatini all’Amatriciana, Maine lobster, house-cured pancetta, herb salad, with a sweet onion-tomato sauce.  This time the perfect pairing was a Jean Marc Boillot, Chataliene Vineyard, Rully, Burgundy France, 2008.  I offered to trade a morsel of what I was enjoying for a taste of Jon’s Blue Ribbon sunny-side-up duck egg, celery root-potato hash, smoked shallot puree, confit of chicken gizzards, with a spicy hollandaise.  Okay, so maybe it was two bites, just to get all the flavor components in my memory.   I’ve since  recreated this breakfast staple turned gourmet dinner delight at home.

Farm-raised daurade, scallion-potato cakes, Shooting Star bok choy, pea vine salad, summer truffle vinaigrette, with a sauce Choron was my “plat”.    Accompanying this deliciousness on a plate was a Bernabeleva “Navaherreros” (Grenache), Madrid Spain 2008.  Jon enjoyed his Fountain Prairie Fram dry-aged ribeye, “loaded” mashed potatoes, mushroom-broccoli ragout, horseradish-garlic compound butter, with a cabernet jus.  As good as his was, I think top scores went to my third course.

We shared a cheese course which included a Fantôme Farm “Moreso”, a Blue Mont Dairy “Earth Schmier” and a Hooks 15 Yr. Cheddar.  Somebody please tell me why we here in Minnesota cannot purchase these wonderful delights?  We are not that far from the border.

Last but not least, I enjoyed a Cordillera chocolate pâte, caramelized fennel, honey-citrus ice cream, cocoa biscotti with a “New York Malmsey” from The Rare Wine Company Historic Madeira Series.  Jon decided on the Door County Barnard cherry cake with maple creme anglaise, cherry-vanilla coulis, maple-cayenne tuile.

Everything about the evening was perfect from the moment we walked in the door.  The waitstaff was top-notch and the meal impeccable.  I could go on rhapsodically about the food, but the menu changes very often.  What we enjoyed would most likely not be available again, as the local availability of produce and other ingredients is always changing.   True to his reputation of  local sourcing, there was a Tory spotting the next morning during our wandering around the farmer’s market.  It was likely that he was picking out what was the freshest for the menu that evening.

To my pleasant surprise a recent issue of Food & Wine magazine featured E’toile, along with some of Chef Miller’s recipes and he philosophy of cooking.  If you are ever in Madison, WI, E’toile is a must stop. In the meantime check out the article.

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