Here is another recipe for a delightful cracker that is great to serve with an apéritif.  Originally, I served some thinly sliced smoked salmon with a little crème fraîche on these, but I have sense discovered an absolutely delicious alternative.  It’s smoked trout from Brook Park Fish Farm.  Todd, who owns Brook Park is at the Saint Paul Farmer’s Market.

The trout is out of this world.  It is so dense and flavorful, as well as being a feast for your eyes.  You’d think you were enjoying salmon.  It’s an organic product that he takes great pride in sharing with anyone who is lucky enough snag a package.

Seek him out if and when you are able to get over to the market and enjoy it with a batch of these crackers.  As far as I know, the Saint Paul Farmer’s Market is the only place where it is available.

¾ cup (2 ounces) pecan halves
¾ cup (4 ounces) unbleached all-purpose flour
4 tablespoons (2 ounces) very cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
3 ounces blue cheese, crumbled
2 tablespoons cocoa nibs
¼ cup cocoa powder, optional

Pre-heat oven to 375ºF.  Place pecans on baking sheet and bake until fragrant, approximately 5 minutes.  Remove from oven and let cool to room temperature.

Combine flour and butter in bowl of a food processor and using the metal “S” blade pulse until mixture resembles course meal.

Add the cooled pecans and pulse until roughly chopped.  Add the cheese and nibs and process until dough comes together and is well combined.

Transfer dough to a piece of parchment paper and shape the dough into a 2-inch-wide log.  Wrap log in parchment paper and refrigerate for at least 24 hours.

When ready to bake-off the crackers, pre-heat oven to 325ºF.  Remove dough from refrigerator and unwrap.  Pour the cocoa powder on the parchment paper in a line the length of the dough and roll the dough so that the cocoa powder covers the log of dough completely.

Slice the well-chilled log into 1/8-inch thick slices.  Transfer slices to a parchment lined baking sheet and bake immediately, rotating sheet halfway through cooking, until crackers are golden brown and firm in the center, 25-35 minutes.  Transfer to a rack to cool and serve.

Photography by David Schmit

Two years ago, I spent the month of June participating in a charcuterie class at the culinary school of the Saint Paul College.  It was a fascinating experience and I learned a tremendous amount of information.  It also have me a greater appreciation for the skill that it requires to produce and excellent charcuterie.  Here’s my take on a rabbit terrine that I learned in the class.

Rabbit Terrine (French country-style pork and rabbit terrine)
Serves 8 – 12

2 ½ pounds Pork shoulder
1 pound Rabbit meat, including loins
¼ cup Shallots
2 cloves garlic, minced
¼ cup flat leave Italian parsley, finely chopped
Nutmeg, Salt and freshly ground black pepper — to taste
½ cup heavy cream
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons Cognac or brandy
½ cup pistachios
3 bay leaves

Trim the pork shoulder of some of its fat and cut it into 1-inch chunks.  Place the pork butt, shallots, parsley, nutmeg salt and pepper into a large bowl and mix well. At this point you can chill the ingredients overnight if you like.

Working in batches, add the meat mixture (except the rabbit) to a food processor and pulse until the meat is well chopped but still chunky. Remove all but 1/3 of the meat mixture to a large bowl and process the remaining until it is smoother, but still has some texture. Remove the smoother mixture to the mixing bowl that contains the other meat.

Combine the cream, eggs, flour, and cognac or brandy in a medium bowl and beat with a whisk until smooth. Stir this egg mixture into the meat mixture, stirring well to combine and blend.

Make a small patty with some of the meat and cook it in a hot skillet. Allow to cool and then taste the patty.  Adjust the salt and other seasonings of the remaining meat mixture to taste. Note that the meat should be well seasoned.

Preheat oven to 325°F. Line the bottom and sides of a pâté or terrine mold or a 1 1/2-quart glass nonreactive loaf pan with bacon, leaving the extra bacon to hang over the sides of the pan.

Place half the meat mixture into the terrine mold. Next layer the rabbit pieces in one layer.  Add the pistachios down the center.  Add in the remaining half of the meat mixture on top of the rabbit pieces.

Smooth out the meat and tap the mold on the counter to get rid of any air pockets. Place the bay leaves across the top and bring the extra bacon up over the top of the pâté. Cover the terrine with the lid or a piece of aluminum foil.

Place the terrine in a heatproof baking dish large enough to hold it and pour in enough hot water to come halfway up the sides. Place in the oven and bake for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, or until the pâté reaches an internal temperature of 160°F.

Remove from the oven, cool completely and then refrigerate overnight or for up to 1 week. Unmold and serve with baguette, cornichons and Dijon mustard.  It would also be delicious with a green salad and a glass of chilled Chardonnay or a Rosé on the patio some summer evening.

Photograph by David Schmit

This recipe was originally published for PastureLand Co-op

2/3 cup (2 ounces) pecans
1 1/2 cups (about 6 ounces) grated PastureLand Raw Milk Organic medium or sharp Cheddar, divided
1 cup (4 1/2 ounces) all-purpose flour
1 cup (5 3/4 ounces) yellow cornmeal
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1 tablespoon double acting baking powder
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
5 tablespoons (2.5 ounces) PastureLand unsalted butter, melted and cooled, plus more for brushing muffin tins if going that route
3/4 cup whole milk
1/4 cup whole milk sour cream
1 large eggPreheat oven to 400°F.  Using non-stick food spray, lightly spray twelve 1/3-cup muffin cups or 24 mini muffin tins or brush with softened butter or use paper muffin cups.

If you lick the spoon that has been dipped in a mustard jar, and then you go back and do it again, you know that it is the taste of something truly wonderful.  Whether for a vinaigrette or to slather on a ham that has been studded with garlic slices and rosemary sprigs, I’ve been making every excuse to go back to the jar for another taste.

This is not your typical French’s mustard in the yellow squirt bottle, mind you, but from a jar of Moutarde de Dijon that is made by the company of Edmond Fallot. It’s a blend of black and brown mustard seeds.  Most of the seeds are now grown in North America; there’s a long story on their website about the decline of the mustard seed crop in France and its hopeful resurgence.

This silky smooth, golden hue of creamy goodness has notes of tart and tangyiness and just the slightest bit of sweetness.  During our short stay I managed to snag a tour at what I understood to be the last traditional mustard mill in Dijon; that being Moutarde du Fallot.  I finally popped open the can that we lugged back from Beaune and opened the jar containing a delicious 15.8 ounces of heaven.

The Fallot Mustard Mill has been an independent, family-owned Burgundian company that has been around since 1840. This is the last artisan mustard maker where mustard seeds are still stone ground.  This preserves all the flavor of the mustard paste.   M. Marc Désarménien, grandson of Edmond Fallot, is now at the head of the company and about twenty employees ensure the quality of the production.

My recently-opened jar reminded me of our few days in Beaune in the heart of Burgundy.  Visiting this bit of paradise is always good for the soul, especially when one has the opportunity to stay with Mme. Helene and her family at their home Château de Melin, built in 1550.

It didn’t hurt either that we ate some of the best food in France, not to mention enjoying some of the famed wines of Burgundy.

With recommendations from Mme. Helene, we enjoyed two delightful meals; one at Le Conty in Beaune and the other at Le Relais de la Diligence in Meursault.  I’d have to say that dinner at Le Relais was far and away better than Le Conty.  That’s not to say that Le Conty was bad, just that Le Relais was exceptional.  Of course, being in Burgundy, I had to try two of the classics:  escargot and oeufs en meurette.  I’d been fortunate enough to experiment with both these recipes at home and I wanted to compare mine against those from the epicenter of Burgundian cuisine.  According to those that have tasted these dishes on both sides of the pond, I did alright in my attempts.

Here’s my recipe for the Oeufs on Meurette. Enjoy it as a first course, brunch, or lunch and, of course, with a glass of red from Burgundy.

Oeufs en Meurette
8 servings as a starter

8 large farm fresh eggs (the fresher the better)
4 tablespoons white wine vinegar
8 thick slices of sourdough
freshly ground black pepper
olive oil
salt

For the Sauce:
4 tablespoons (2 ounces) unsalted butter
2 small onions, diced
2 small carrots, diced
2 celery stalks, diced
4 garlic cloves, sliced
5 black peppercorns
2 cups chicken stock (preferably homemade)
5 cups red wine
3-4 sprigs fresh thyme
2 bay leaves
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

For the Garnish:
4 thick slices of bacon, chopped into lardons
2 tablespoon (1 ounce) unsalted butter
24 button mushrooms, quartered
24 pearl onions or small shallots, peeled
3-4 teaspoons granulated sugar
2/3 cup chicken stock (preferably homemade)

Melt half the butter in a deep frying pan and add the onion, carrot and celery, sautéing for about 10  minutes or until the vegetables start to color.  Add the garlic and continue to cook about 1 minute.

Add all other sauce ingredients (except the flour and remaining butter) and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and leave on a gentle simmer for 40 minutes. Strain through a fine sieve into another pan, pressing the vegetables to extract all the flavor. Reserve the sauce and discard the vegetables.

While the sauce is simmering, in a separate pan fry the bacon on a medium heat with half the butter until lightly browned. Add the mushrooms and fry until tender seasoning to taste with salt and pepper, then remove from pan, and set aside and keep warm.

In same pan, heat the remaining butter for the garnish over a medium-high flame. Add the pearl onions or shallots and sugar, cooking until golden. Add the stock, cover with a lid and simmer for 10 minutes, until tender.

Lift off the lid and turn up the heat slightly to reduce the liquid, leaving the shallots nicely glazed. Set aside and keep warm.

When ready to serve, bring a large shallow pan of water (about 5cm/2 inches deep) to the boil. Reduce the boiling water to a simmer and add the vinegar and ½ teaspoon of salt. Give the water a quick stir then carefully break an egg into the center of the swirling water. Leave to poach gently for 3 minute then lift out with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen towels. Repeat with the remaining 7 eggs.

At the same time, bring the sauce back to a simmer. Mix the remaining 1 tablespoon butter and flour together with a spoon then add the mixture to the sauce.  Simmer for 2-3 minutes to thicken and cook out the flour. In a frying pan, fry your slices of sourdough with a little olive oil for a couple of minutes each side (alternatively, you can just toast them).

To serve, place a piece of toasted sourdough on a plate and top with an egg. Scatter over the shallots, mushrooms and bacon then spoon over 3-4 spoonfuls of sauce.  Enjoy while it’s hot.

Holiday entertaining is already underway and these savory crackers are always delicious as part of your party buffet.   The dough can be made ahead and then baked off as needed.  Include them as as part of a cheese tray or with a slice of smoked salmon and a dollop of sour cream or crème fraîche.  Makes 30 – 40 crackers

1 cup (2 ½ ounces) Parmesan cheese, cut into 1” pieces
¾ cup (3 ¼ ounces) unbleached all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon kosher salt
Pinch of ground white pepper
2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh rosemary or thyme
3 tablespoons PastureLand cold unsalted butter cut in ¼” pieces
5 tablespoons (2 ½ ounces) sour cream or crème fraîche

In bowl of food processor, using metal S blade, finely chop Parmesan cheese.  Add flour, salt, pepper and herb pulsing to combine.  Add butter and pulse until mixture resembles coarse meal.  Add sour cream or crème fraîche and process until dough comes together into a ball.

Transfer dough to large piece of parchment paper and shape into a 1 ½” wide log.  Wrap tightly in paper and refrigerate for at least 24 hours. After logs are cold they can be wrapped in food film and frozen for up to 1 month. Defrost in refrigerator overnight before proceeding with recipe.

Heat oven to 325º F.  Slice well-chilled log into 1/8” thick coins.  Transfer slices to parchment lined baking sheet.  Bake immediately, turned coins over and rotating sheets halfway through cooking, until centers are firm to the touch, about 25-30 minutes.  Watch carefully so as not to burn.  Transfer to a wire rack to cool.  Store in an airtight container, at room temperature, 3 to 4 days.

Someone from work wanted a recipe for a fresh tomato bruschetta.  I thought tomato season was a little past its prime, but you sure wouldn’t have known it based on the many varieties at the Saint Paul Farmer’s Market yesterday.  Here’s the recipe if you can still find a local heirloom or two.

8 ripe plum or heirloom tomatoes, seeded and diced
2 tablespoons finely minced garlic
1/2 cup coarsely chopped fresh basil
1/4 cup finely chopped fresh Italian parsley
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1/2 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon finely minced fresh tarragon or thyme
1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes (optional)
1/8 cup salt packed capers, rinsed and chopped (optional)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 baguettes, cut in 1/2-inch-thick slices
Olive oil for brushing bread slices
6 cloves garlic, cut in half
Fresh Mozzarella, thinly sliced

In a bowl, mix all ingredients except bread, olive oil for brushing, garlic cloves and mozzarella. Add salt and pepper to taste. Set aside, unrefrigerated, for up to 3 hours.

Heat oven to 350°F.  Brush bread slices with a little olive oil and toast both sides of the bread on a baking sheet until lightly browned.  Rub cut side of garlic on each slice of toasted bread.

Add one slice of mozzarella on each baguette slice and top with tablespoon of the tomato mixture.  Broil until cheese melts or skip that and serve room temperature.  Garnish with small basil leaf on each if desired.

Recently our friends Julie, Dean, Barb and Tim wanted to come over to Bret’s Table to cook and enjoy dinner together.  Barb also wanted to show-off our kitchen to her son and daughter-in-law who were visiting from California.  Of course, anytime friends call and ask, “Can we cook at Bret’s Table?” if we’re available, the answer is always, “Absolutely, come on over and bring a bottle of wine.”

Being inspired by Hiroko’s recent visit, I wanted to come up with a Japanese menu for the occasion.  With both her books sitting on the counter, The Sushi Experience and The Japanese Kitchen, I picked up the latter and started thumbing through it, asking myself, “hmm what to have, what to have.”  Due to the August heat, I was looking for recipes where the oven would not have to be used at all or if so, only briefly.  Let’s just say, I wasn’t about to roast a whole stuffed salmon, when it’s 90 degrees outside.

Also, as with any multi-course menu that I plan, I was looking for flavor combinations that would compliment each other or at least tie each course together with a common thread.    Sometimes I’m more successful than others in accomplishing that goal.  This time, it seemed to work beautifully.  Maybe it’s because I sent a quick email off to Hiroko to verify that my ideas would tie together or at least be successful enough so that if one was Japanese, one wouldn’t be offended.

Barbs’ son, Lance, is a big foodie and wanted to learn a new technique or two in the process of our cooking together.  He’s such a foodie that the last time Barb and Tim and Julie and Dean were over prepping for a dinner together, we called Lance and his wife, Meghan, for we were cooking out of Thomas Keller’s book, The French Laundry.  Lance and Meghan had been fortunate to have just eaten at the restaurant of the same name.  Since none of us had ever eaten there, we could say that what we were cooking was just as good and wasn’t costing $250 per person.

Anyway, for the Japanese menu, I decided that we should tackle Hiroko’s Heavenly Rice Crackers which are quite simple to make and truly heavenly to eat with their crisp texture and nutty flavor.  To accompany them, we made an Edamame Pâté.  I had recently been given the recipe for the pâté and had been wanting to try it out.  However, as soon as we tasted the original recipe, we promptly changed it, as it was too bland for our taste.

For the second course, I was intrigued by Hiroko’s recipe for a Duck Dumpling in Consommé for two reasons.  One was the fact that the dumpling was made by combining duck breasts and sea bass into a paste.  I would have never thought of combining these two proteins.  And secondly, how Hiroko explained making the dumpling shape, I immediately thought of  a quenelle.  Of course, I’m always a sucker for wanting to practice a technique and a quenelle does take a little effort to get the hang of it.

To continue the fish theme, I decided on a Miso-Marinated Salmon with Spinach Sauce alongside perfectly-steamed brown rice.   Hmm…spinach sauce.  I like spinach, but pureed?  However, I thought that since Jon’s been on this spinach kick lately, now would be the time to venture into this territory before it was too late.

For dessert, we would repeat what Hiroko and I made for a party when she was here :  a rhubarb soup with Izzy’s vanilla bean ice cream and brandied cherries.  I know it’s not very Japanese, but the rhubarb was from the garden and we had brandied the cherries earlier and they were sitting on the refrigerator shelf, begging to be enjoyed.

I handed out the recipes and divided everyone into teams.  Julie and Dean, after many taste tests, came up with the new version of the Edamame Pâté.  Meghan rolled out and baked the crackers.  Lance and I dug into the dumpling and consommé recipe and Barb and Tim tackled the sauce for the spinach and well as cooked the rhubarb soup.  Last but not least, Jon was in charge of the dishwashing throughout the evening.

After much laughter and no kitchen mishaps, we sat down to enjoy dinner and several bottles of 2009  Shine  – Heinz Eifel – Riesling.  We took lots of pictures, but unfortunately, not one photo of any of the food.  We were all too busy taking pictures of each other.  You’ll have to trust me that it all turned out beautiful as well as delicious.

I have made another batch of the crackers.  They are easy to make and could be enjoyed not only with the Edamame Pâté but also with a fresh tomato salsa.  Making the salsa may be a challenge though if you happen to have a partner that turns every last tomato into a paste before you can say “fresh tomato brusschetta”.

HEAVENLY, CRISPY RICE CRACKERS

The Twin Cities Food & Wine Experience was this past weekend at the Minneapolis Convention Center. It was great to see so many local, independent vendors this year specializing in artisan foods. A couple of owners with whom I was able to chat for a moment included Janan Juliff from The Cake Diva and Karen Loomis from Extra Dough. The Cake Diva was offering samples of a delicious chocolate butter-cream cake and tangy tangerine macarons. Extra Dough was serving slices of dense Chocolate Cherry Amaretto Cake and one of their signature nuts, candied walnuts.

Of course, I’m always delighted to taste any wine that Kevin McKinney from MVP Wines is pouring. It may have something to do with the fact that they are all from Provence, but more importantly they are all absolutely outstanding, especially the rosés.

For the Local Chef’s Challenge, I assisted Rick Kimmes, Executive Chef at The Oceanaire Seafood Room, and Jack Riebel, Executive Chef at The Dakota Jazz Club and Restaurant. We used wonderful local ingredients from places like Six Rivers and PastureLand Cooperatives.

Rick got knocked out in the first round, but Jack made it all the way to the winner’s circle with his Lamb Carpaccio with Shaved Parmesan and Lingonberry sauce and a Stuffed Chicken Breast with Whole Wheat Saffron Couscous and Ancho Chilies.  I know it was more complicated, but we were each responsible for one piece of the whole, so I couldn’t give a full description if my life depended on it.  If Jack reads this, maybe he can remember all the details.* All I know is that assisting these fine chefs was an honor and it was amazing how fast 45 minutes can go by.

*Addendum:  For Chef Riebel’s final showdown with Chef Fratzke he prepared a lamb carpaccio brushed with a lingonberry and chipotle gastrique with whole lingonberries on top and garnished with micro-arugula, parmesan cheese, pine nuts and apple.

And it wasn’t the chicken at all as I had stated above, that was the previous round for which I assisted. For the final entrée,  he chose barramundi which he seared, skin-on, and topped with a dressing made of lingonberry jam, roasted peppers, five different herbs, and ancho chiles. The fish was served alongside a saffron whole-wheat couscous atop a kumquat and cumin reduction, which also included tangerines, shallots, butter, and grapefruit. A lingonberry jam vinaigrette was drizzled around the plate as well.

I was also nabbed at the last minute on Sunday to teach a food and beer pairing class with Mike from Summit Brewery. Unfortunately, the scheduled chef was laid up with pneumonia. On the fly, I came up with a recipe, texted a grocery list to a volunteer who happened to be at Lunds and had a scrumptious beef satay with a spicy peanut sauce to everyone within an hour. I called it “Impromptu Entertaining”. We tasted the satay with four of the Summit Brewery beers. It was a whirlwind, but I think the Red Lager paired the best with the spicy notes of the satay.  Here’s the recipe:

Beef Satay with Spicy Peanut Sauce
Yield: 24 one ounce portions

Sauce
Yield: Makes about 1 cup

1/2 tablespoon vegetable or olive oil
1 small shallot, chopped fine
1/2 inch peeled ginger root chopped fine
2 garlic cloves, chopped fine
1/2 cup water
1/4 cup creamy or chunky peanut butter
1/8 cup soy sauce
1/8 cup rice white vinegar
1 1/2 tablespoons firmly packed brown sugar
1/8 – 1/4 teaspoon sriracha or to taste

1. Heat oil in a saucepan over moderate heat until hot but not smoking.  Cook shallots and ginger, stirring until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add garlic and continue stirring about 30 seconds.
2. Stir in remaining ingredients and bring to a simmer, stirring. Simmer sauce, stirring, until combined, about 4 to 5 minutes and cool to room temperature.
3. Sauce may be made up to 3 days ahead and chilled, covered. If sauce is too thick after chilling, stir in 1 to 2 tablespoons hot water until sauce reaches desired consistency.
4. Serve sauce with grilled beef satay.  Any remaining can be tossed as part of a spinach salad.

Marinade
Skewers
1 1/2 pounds sirloin steak, 1 1/2 inches thick
1 inch fresh ginger, peeled and chopped fine
1 medium shallot, peeled and chopped fine
2 tablespoons chopped cilantro
2 scallions, minced
3-4 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme
1/4 cup olive oil
1/2 tablespoon toasted sesame oil
1 teaspoon sriracha
1/4 cup soy sauce
Juice of one small lime
1 teaspoon honey

Garnish
1/2 cup salted peanuts
1/4 cup sesame seeds, toasted
1/4 cup cilantro leaves

1. Cover skewers in water and soak for at least one hour.
2. Cut steak across the grain into strips. Place in bowl and toss with remaining ingredients.  Let marinate for at least ½ hour a room temperature or up to 2 hours in the refrigerator.
3. Thread steak on skewers without overlapping.
4. Cook satay on indoor or outdoor grill until medium rare turning once or twice.
5. Serve warm or room temperature with a bowl of peanut sauce as part of a buffet, garnishing platter with peanuts, cilantro leaves and sesame seeds.

16 large uncooked scallops, dry packed
32 mini fillo shell cups
Court Bouillon (see recipe)
Mango Salsa (see recipe) or use purchased mango salsa

Poach scallops in court-bouillon and set aside to cool. When scallops are cool, cut in half (or quarters, depending on their size) and place one piece in each of the fillo cups. Add ½ teaspoon or so of mango salsa.

Top with a cilantro leaf and serve. Makes 32 appetizers

Mango Salsa
2 small mangoes, peeled, pitted, and cut into ¼  inch dice
¾ cup chopped red onion
2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1 teaspoon minced peeled fresh ginger
½ teaspoon grated lime peel
? teaspoon cayenne pepper
2 tablespoons olive oil

Mix all ingredients in small bowl. Season with salt and pepper.(Can be made 6 hours ahead. Cover and chill.)