Butter Cookies

This is a recipe that I demonstrated at the Minnesota State Fair years ago. Use the best organic unsalted butter you can get your hands on because after all, it’s a butter cookie. Recipe from The French Cookie Book by Bruce Healy with Paul Bugat.

Butter Cookies v2 (1)135 g or ½ cup, plus 1 ½ tablespoons, unsalted butter, softened
60 g or ½ cup, confectioner’s sugar
½ cl or 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
170 g or 1 cup plus 3 ½ tablespoons, all-purpose flour
1 egg, lightly beaten
50 g or ¼ cup, crystal sugar

Place butter on counter-top and sift sugar over it. Cream butter with the sugar by repeatedly smearing it across the counter-top with the heel of your hand and gathering back together with a bench knife. When smooth, mix in the vanilla with your fingertips. Work quickly so that butter does not melt.

Sift flour over butter mixture. Mix in flour, either by cutting it in with the dough scraper or by stirring and tossing with your fingertips, until a loose, crumbly dough is achieved. Gather the dough together and finish mixing by smearing it across the counter-top, a little at a time, with the heel of your hand. Gather the dough together again, and repeat until smooth.

Form a cylinder between a sheet of parchment paper to 1-inch in diameter. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate until firm or freeze for up to three months.

Prior to baking, preheat oven to 375ºF. While oven is preheating, brush cylinder of dough with beaten egg. Place the crystal sugar on a sheet of parchment paper and roll each cylinder in sugar, coating evenly. Cut each cylinder into slices 3/8-inch thick. Transfer to parchment lined baking sheet.

Bake until bottoms of cookies have browned and edges have begun to brown, 14 – 16 minutes. Cool completely and store for up to one week in an airtight counter.

Posted in Desserts, Recipes | Leave a comment

Chicken Liver Paté with Port Gelée

I so enjoy paté. Any variation is just dandy with me; whether it’s duck liver (paté de foie de canard), mushroom (pâté de champignons), or this chicken liver with port jello (pâté de foie de poulet au porto gelée).

It’s easy to make. However, I found that using a blender makes for a much smoother paté rather than using a food processor.  If you’re okay with the end results being more rustic (i.e., less smooth) by all means use your food processor. I enjoy a mouth feel that’s perfectly creamy so I switched out my equipment and used my Vitamix. In other words, I did the testing so that you wouldn’t have to!

I’m also a big fan of duck fat and happened to have some stashed away in my refrigerator. Consequently, I used a combination of fats with about 4 ounces of butter and 2 ounces of duck fat.

Paté is perfect to serve on crostini as part of an apéritif with a glass of champagne or rosé.

IMG_1064

Makes about six – 3 ounce ramekins

For the Paté:
1 to 1 1/4 pounds chicken livers, well-trimmed and preferably organic
10 to 15 white peppercorns
2 allspice berries
1 clove, whole
3 coriander seeds
3/4 cup (6 oz / 180 g) unsalted butter
1 large shallot, chopped (about 1/2 cup)
1 garlic clove, chopped
Pinch of kosher salt or to taste
1 – 2 tablespoons brandy or cognac
2 tablespoon heavy cream

For the gelée:
1 gelatin sheet (3 x 5-inches)
4-5 coriander seeds
2 allspice berries
1/4 cup (2 oz), plus 2 tablespoons port
2 teaspoons granulated sugar

To make Paté
Place the livers in a non-reactive colander or strainer and allow to drain. Remove them to some paper towels to dry. Set aside.

Using a mortar and pestle pulverize into a fine powder the peppercorns, allspice berries, whole clove and coriander seeds. Set aside.

In a medium skillet heat about 2 tablespoons of butter. Add the shallots and cook about 5 minutes or just until translucent.  Add the garlic and salt to taste and continue to cook about another minute, being careful not to let the garlic brown nor letting the butter burn.  Add the spices and cook for an additional 10 seconds so that the spices bloom.  Remove the mixture to a heat proof bowl.

Wipe out the skillet to remove any bits they may burn during the second round of cooking. Place the skillet back on medium heat and add another 6 tablespoons of fat.  Once the fat is hot, add the livers (in batches if necessary so as not to crowd the pan). Quickly sauté, searing the outside, but keeping the inside pink in color. If cooking in batches remove the livers along with the butter (again if it’s getting too dark) as they cook and reserve. Add more fat as needed along with the remaining livers and cook in the same method as the first batch.

Once all the livers are cooked, remove the pan from the heat and add the brandy or cognac.  Return to the heat and carefully tip the pan (if using a gas flame) or ignite the alcohol with a long match. Allow the alcohol to burn off. The goal is to control the ignition of the alcohol so that it’s not a surprise.

After all the livers have been cooked and the flame has burned out, add the contents to a blender (or food processor) along with the sautéed onions and remaining butter. Blend until the paté is completely smooth. Once smooth add the cream and blend just until combined.

Pack in 3 ounce mason jars or ramekins and allow to cool to room temperature.  Cover and refrigerate until cold.

To make gelée:
Place the gelatin sheet in a small bowl of cold water and allow to bloom (soften). This should take about 10 minutes. While the gelatin is blooming, using a mortar and pestle, pulverize the spices and set aside.  Place port wine, sugar and spices in a small saucepan. Heat to a simmer to dissolve the sugar. Turn off the heat and strain to remove any spice bits. Return the port to the pan and keep hot.

After the gelatin has bloomed, remove the sheet from the water and squeeze out any excess. Add the gelatin to the hot port mixture, stirring until the gelatin has dissolved. Pour into a small heat-proof measuring cup and divide evenly over the ramekins of chilled paté. Allow to cool and then return to the refrigerator.

The paté will keep in the refrigerator for up to 3 days or in the freezer for a couple of months.

To serve, allow paté to come to room temperature. Spread a bit of the gelée and paté in crostini and serve with a glass of champagne or rosé.

Posted in Appetizers, Cooking Classes, General Blog | Leave a comment

Black Walnut and Coconut Banana Bread

This may be the best banana bread I’ve yet to bake. But that doesn’t mean I’m going to stop testing other variations. It’s not too dense and has a nice crumb but it’s not crumbly like some banana breads.

I’m also a huge fan of coconut and nuts in general. I’d gladly add walnuts or pecans to most anything. As good fortune would have it, I remembered that a friend had gifted me with a bag of black walnuts; so in went 3 ounces that I had coarsely chopped.

I also had some Cream of Wheat left from another recipe. It’s doubtful that I will ever eat a bowl of cream of wheat so I added half a cup just to use some of it.

IMG_2138Butter for preparing loaf pan
1 cup (8 oz) ripe bananas (about 2 large or 3 medium bananas)
1 3/4 cups (8 oz) unbleached all-purpose flour
1/2 cup (2.25 oz) cream of wheat
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 cup (2 oz) whole milk, room temperature
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
8 tablespoons (4 oz) unsalted butter, room temperature
1 cup (7 oz) granulated sugar
2 large eggs, room temperature
1/2 cup (2 oz) coconut (unsweetened)
Generous 1/2 cup (3 oz) chopped walnuts or pecans

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat to 350°F. Butter the bottom and sides of 1 (approximately 10 x 5 x 3-inch) loaf pan and line with parchment paper leaving the paper to extend over the sides of the pan.

In a medium bowl weigh out 8 ounces of ripe bananas and mash with a folk. In a large bowl, whisk together flour, cream of wheat, baking soda, and salt. In a glass measuring cup, measure out milk and add vanilla

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the butter and sugar and beat on medium speed until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add the eggs one at a time continue beating until completely incorporated, about 1 minute. Add the mashed bananas and beat for about 30 seconds. Add the flour mixture in 2 batches, and stir on low speed until just incorporated, about 30 seconds total. Add coconut and nuts, if desired, and using a rubber spatula fold them into the batter.

Spoon the batter into the prepared pan and smooth the top. Bake until a wooden toothpick inserted in the center of the loaf emerges clean, about 60 – 70 minutes.

Transfer to a wire rack to let cool for 10 to 15 minutes then gently lift the bread out of the mold using the overhanging parchment paper.

DO AHEAD: Banana bread can be baked ahead, cooled completely, and kept, wrapped in plastic wrap, up to 2 days, or frozen, wrapped in plastic wrap and foil, up to 3 months.

IMG_2156 (2)

Posted in Desserts, General Blog, Ingredients, Snacks | Leave a comment

Navette Cookies from Marseille

When I turned the page of Jamie’s new book Orange Appeal and saw this recipe I was immediately transported back to Cannes (which is not far from Marseille).

There’s a shop in the old city where these little “boats” are stacked on a table from my waist to my head (okay, maybe not as tall as I thought) with flavors including pistachio, chocolate, and anise.

I easily doubled this recipe weighing out 2 ounce pieces of dough before rolling and forming into the boats as Jamie instructs below.  I ended up with 48 cookies.

The only other adaption was that I used heavy cream for brushing on the cookies prior to baking. I was out of milk and wasn’t about to forgo baking these because of it. It work just fine.

IMG_2170Jamie’s recipe as written below makes 12 cookies

1/2 cup (4 1/2 oz / 100 g) granulated white sugar
1 large egg
1 rounded teaspoon orange zest
3 teaspoons orange blossom water
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 3/4 cups plus 2 tablespoons (9 oz / 250 g) all-purpose flour
Milk, for brushing the cookies before baking

In a medium mixing bowl, beat the sugar and the egg on medium-high speed until pale, thick, and creamy, about 2 minutes.  Beat in the zest, orange blossom water, and oil.

Stir the salt into the flour and then beat 2/3 of the flour into the batter in 2 or 3 additions.  Finish folding the flour in by hand, kneading until all of the flour has been added and a smooth dough has developed. Form the the dough into a ball, wrap in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 1 hour.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F (180 degrees C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

Take the dough out of the refrigerator and slightly flatten the ball into a disc. Cut the dough into 12 even wedges. Roll each wedge into a 3-inch-long (7 cm) oval log and place on the prepared baking sheet.  Shape the pieces of dough into small “navettes” or little boats by pressing to flatten just a bit, and pinching the 2 ends into rounded points. Make a 2-inch (5 cm) slit down the center of each with a sharp knife, cutting only halfway down into the dough, and carefully push the slit open slightly. Brush each cookie lightly with milk.

Bake for 20-25 minutes, or until golden; the tips and undersides should be a deeper golden brown. Remove from the oven and allow the cookies to cool on a rack. Store in a covered container.

Recipe by Jamie Schler from Orange Appeal, reprinted by permission of Gibbs Smith.

Orange-Appeal-Cover-02 (1)

Posted in Cookbook Reviews, Desserts, General Blog, Ingredients, Recipes | 2 Comments

Tomato and Caramelized Onion Jam

IMG_2186It’s amazing how six tomatoes plants can be so prolific. There’s only so many BLTs a person can eat and I had already made tomato paste and sauce. I still had plenty of romas to make two batches of this jam.

It’s a little sweet, slightly tart and with just enough heat to give it a kick. It’s great with some artisan cheeses, on a grilled cheese sandwich, or dolloped on a crab cake. Actually, I should have spread some on those BLT’s I was enjoying.

Makes 4 half-pints

4 pounds roma tomatoes (about 20 medium)
4 medium yellow onions, peeled and thinly sliced (yields about 1 ½ pounds)
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 cup granulated sugar
½ cup light brown sugar
zest of one lemon, preferably organic
Juice from 1 lemon
2 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
1 teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon Piment d’Espelette
½ teaspoon black pepper, freshly ground
½ teaspoon Herbes de Provence

Half fill a stockpot with water and to a boil. Using a paring or serrated tomato knife cut a small X in the flower end of each tomato and carefully drop them into the boiling water. After the skin begins to peel back, using a slotted spoon remove the tomatoes from the boiling water and plunge them into an ice bath.

Once cool enough to handle, peel each of them*. Cut them into quarters, remove the seeds and tough interior core and coarsely chop. You should end up with about 2 pounds of fruit.

Melt butter and add olive oil in a large heavy-bottomed stainless steel or enameled cast iron saucepan over high heat. Add onions and cook, stirring frequently, until they begin to caramelize. This should take between 15 – 20 minutes.

Add 2 tablespoons water and scrape up the fond (browned bits) with wooden spoon. Continue to cook, stirring frequently, until fond has built up again, about 5 minutes longer. Add 2 more tablespoons water and scrape the pan to deglaze. Repeat cooking, adding water, and scraping until onions are completely softened and a deep, dark brown, about 30 – 45 minutes total.

To the caramelized onions add tomatoes, sugars, lemon zest and juice, vinegars, salt, Piment d’Espelette, pepper, and Herbes de Provence and stir to combine. Bring mixture to a boil, then reduce heat and barely simmer, stirring occasionally, until tomatoes have broken down and thickened to a jammy consistency, 1 to 1 1/2 hours.

Once reduced, if a less chucky consistency is desired, run half the mixture through the largest disk of a food mill, give it a quick stir and remove the saucepan from the heat.

Transfer jam to an airtight container, allow to cool and store in refrigerator for up to two weeks, or ladle the hot mixture into 1/2 pint sterilized canning jars and process in a hot water bath according to the USDA canning directions for jam to seal for self storage.

*I dried the skins in a food dehydrator and pulverized them into powder using a spice (aka coffee) grinder.

Posted in Appetizers, General Blog, Ingredients, Recipes | Leave a comment

Apple and Sour Cherry Pie

IMG_0969
I’m never one to settle for one dimensional tastes and pie filling is no exception. In this recipe I used a variety to apples. Seek out apples in your part of the country that are considered cooking or pie apples. Here in the Midwest, braeburns fill that bill. To those I added a couple of galas for sweetness and a pink lady; just because it’s fun.

If you only use one variety make sure that it is a cooking apple.  Otherwise, “eating’ apples will cook down too much and it will become an applesauce and sour cherry pie.

Makes a 9-inch deep dish pie

Pie dough for double crust
3/4 cup dried sour cherries
1/4 cup poire William or other brandy
scant 1/4 cup (2 oz) water
1/2 cup (3 1/2 oz / 100 g) granulated sugar
1/4 cup (2 oz / 60 g) light brown sugar
4 tablespoons (1 1/4 oz / 35 g) cornstarch
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon ground cardamon
1/8 teaspoon nutmeg, preferably freshly ground
3/4 teaspoon kosher salt
zest from one lemon, preferably organic
2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
6 apples (about 3 1/2 pounds)
1/4 cup sour cherry jam, optional
beaten egg for brushing top
granulated or course sugar for sprinkling

Roll out each of two disks of dough to about 13-inch diameter. Line a 9-inch deep dish pie pan leaving the dough with about an inch overhang. Place the other on a sheet pan and place them in the refrigerator will preparing the filling.

In a small saucepan add the dried cherries, liqueur and water. Simmer on low heat until the cherries are plump and the liquid has evaporated. Watch as this only takes about 5 minutes. Set aside to cool.

Preheat oven to 425°F.

In a large bowl mix together the sugars, cornstarch, cinnamon, cardamon, nutmeg, salt, zest and lemon juice.  Set aside.

Peel, core and slice apples into 1/4-inch slices. Toss into the sugar mixture as you go to prevent the apples from turning brown. Add the reconstituted the sour cherries to the apple mixture and mix to combine.

Pour the apple filling into a prepared pie shell, pressing down with your hands to compact the apples. Top with a second round of dough, folding top edge of dough under bottom edge and crimping as desired.

IMG_0970

Place pie on a silcone or parchment lined sheet pan and bake for 30 minutes at 425°F. Reduce oven to 375°F and continue baking for another 30 minutes.

Cool completely on a rack. Slice and serve with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.

IMG_0976

Posted in Desserts, General Blog, Recipes | Leave a comment

Easy Pie Dough – Double Crust

I’ve read Rose Levy Beranhaum’s book the Pie and Pastry Bible, numerous other cookbooks, and perused the Cooks Illustrated website. All gave me pointers on the use of various fats, flours, and mixing techniques but the Cooks Illustrated recipe was the most intriguing in it’s technique.

I’ve also never understood though why recipes for pie or tart dough call for forming the dough into a ball and then into a disk.  Why isn’t the beginning and end result just a disk? Unless it’s bread dough, I skip the formation into a ball and go right to forming the dough into a disk and the final pie or tart shape determines whether the shape of the “disk” is round, square or rectangular.

Also, when using liquid to make a dough I generally do not us it in all at once.  Sometimes the dough takes less liquid than called for in the recipe. I believe this has to do with the amount of water in the butter. Which brings me to my next point, which is making it a habit of using the same brand of butter for the sake of water content consistency.

This recipe makes enough dough for a 9-inch double crusted pie.  If not making a double crust by all means divide the dough in half and freeze half for another time.

IMG_0692

2 3/4 cups (12.5 oz / 350 g) unbleached all-purpose flour, divided
2 tablespoons (25 g) granulated sugar
1 teaspoon (5 g) kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon double-acting baking powder
1 1/4 cups (10 oz / 280 g) unsalted butter, cut into 1/4-inch pieces
6 tablespoons (2 oz / 85 ml) cold water

Combine two thirds (scant 2 cups or about 235 g) of flour with sugar and salt in the bowl of a food processor. Pulse a couple of times to incorporate. Place the butter chunks evenly over surface. Pulse until no dry flour remains and dough just begins to collect in clumps, about 30 short and long pulses followed by running the processor until the clumps form.

Use a rubber spatula to spread the dough evenly around the bowl of the food processor. Sprinkle in remaining flour and pulse until dough is just barely broken up, about 5 short pulses give or take one. Transfer dough to a large bowl.

Sprinkle about half the water over the dough. Using a stiff rubber spatula, fold and press dough until it comes together into a disk. Add a little more water and continue to fold the dough over itself.  (I switched to using my hands to incorporate the dough into a homogeneous mass.) Divide disk approximately in half. Form each half into a 5-inch disk. Wrap tightly in plastic and refrigerate for at least 2 hours as long as overnight before rolling and baking.

Posted in General Blog | Leave a comment

Fresh Blueberry Tart with Almond Pastry Crust

When I was young the last thing I wanted to do was pick blueberries. Yet in late spring, for more years than not, I headed out to the berry patch with my grandmother. Other times, we’d go off in the woods hunting for wild ones.

I knew we weren’t finished when the picking was over as we’d fill little containers and sell them on the street corner for something like 50¢ a pint. The all-you-could-eat part however was great. I looked forward to that treat every year, hoping that the farmer didn’t ask me to stick out my tongue.

It did teach me the value of hard work and the care it takes to harvest fruit. I now gladly pay $4 or $5 a pint. The local season is fleeting, and the berries amazing, regardless of the part of the country in which you live. Once you’ve tasted a local berry it’s very difficult to enjoy those that have been shipped across the country much less from another continent.

IMG_2050

Pastry
1 1/4 cups (5 1/2 oz / 160 g) all-purpose flour
Scant 1/3 cup (1 oz / 30 g) almond flour (ground almonds)
2/3 cup (2 1/2 oz / 75 g) confectioners’ sugar
1/4 teaspoon (1 g) baking powder
1/4 teaspoon (1 g) kosher salt
Seeds from 1/2 vanilla bean (optional)
5 tablespoons (2 ½ oz / 70 g) cold unsalted butter, diced
3 large egg yolks (52 g), cold

Filling
About 2 pints (12 oz / 450 g) fresh blueberries, washed and dried
1/4 cup (1 3/4 oz / 75 g) granulated sugar
1 1/2 tablespoons (7 1/2  g) cornstarch
1 1/2 tablespoons (15 g) freshly squeezed lemon juice
Zest of one lemon (about 1 tsp / 1 g) preferably organic

Garnish:
1 1/2 cups (6 oz/ 225 grams) fresh blueberries, washed and dried (optional)

In the bowl of a stand mixer sift together the flours, confectioners’ sugar, baking powder, and salt. Add the chunks of cold butter. Using the paddle attachment beat on medium low speed until the mixture is mealy with no visible pieces of butter.

Add the egg yolks and seeds from the vanilla bean (if using) and beat on low speed until the ingredients are combined. It will look as if the mixture is too dry and your inclination will be to add more liquid. The next step will prevent that tendency.

Remove the mixture to a smooth, cold work surface (hmm, like your counter-top) and using the palm of your hand, smear the dough away from you a little at a time, turning it back onto itself with a bench scraper. This method of combining dough mixture is called fraisage.

After the dough has come together form it into a disk and wrap in plastic wrap. Place in the refrigerator to chill for at least six hours or preferably overnight. (If well wrapped, it can be frozen for up to three months.) If using frozen dough, place in the refrigerator overnight to thaw. When ready to roll out remove it from the refrigerator and allow to temper a bit at room temperature for easier rolling and to prevent the edges from cracking.

On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough into a 13-inch round turning it as you go to prevent it from sticking to the counter surface. You can also use that bench scraper to keep it from sticking to the counter. To get the dough from the counter to the tart pan, roll it onto the rolling pin and then unroll into the pan.  Firmly press the pastry into the bottom and up the sides of the tart pan.

With the tines of a fork prick the bottom of the pastry. Cover the prepared tart shell and place in the refrigerator or freezer to chill while you preheat the oven to 400° F and prepare the blueberry filling.

Filling:
In a large bowl mix together the sugar, cornstarch, lemon juice, and zest. Add the blueberries and gently stir to combine. Place the chilled tart shell on a parchment lined baking sheet. Pour the mixture into the shell and bake for 15 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 350° F and continue baking until the tart is golden brown, the blueberries are bubbling and have become soft and jam-like (about another 40 – 45 minutes). If the edges of the crust are browning too much cover the edges with a pie shield.  (I use the ring from an 11-inch removable bottom tart pan.)

When the filling is bubbly remove the tart from oven and place on a wire rack. Top with the remaining blueberries (crown side up), pressing them gently in concentric circles into the hot blueberry filling. If precision is not your gig just scatter the remaining berries over the filling but still press them gently into it.

Let the tart cool to room temperature before serving. If desired, serve with softly whipped cream, crème fraîche, or vanilla ice cream. Cover and store leftovers in the refrigerator. After a day the crust will begin to soften, so my suggestion is eat any remaining for breakfast the next morning.

Makes about 8 -1 2 servings.

IMG_2072 (1)

Posted in Desserts, General Blog, Ingredients, Recipes | Leave a comment